Sorry for the mechanic hands in the pictures. I had just got home from work

No the caps can not change. But I have found a better way to fix the issue just no way to contact them. They just have to slightly change the L trigger. It's about 3 mm longer then the shell of the controller and has a hook/ stopper. If they took the hook part off, shortened the trigger just a tad a...

IDE-EXE would be a better solution then using a computer but Swiss is the best and easiest to use.
I really don't see the point of using the computer, it's really not benefiting anyting.

It is normal for older model systems and reason for concern.
My guess is it's a system or laser check sound saying everything is good

I found the part of the joystick that hit the L trigger so I used my dremmel and took some of the skirting off. I took a little much but I was in a rush as you can see from the pictures. Should never have to use L and the joystick at the same time but it was a complaint so I fixed it 20180306_173931...

Just felt like showing off.

I received one that did the same thing but after 2_3 minutes would say couldn't be read. Had a hair clip stick under the laser. Make sure the rails are clear of debris and laser slides smoothly

https://assemblergames.com/attachments/ ... -zip.9226/

Try this, it's worth a shot

I have two extra lasers left if your still interested

I have a couple v3's I could part with

Make sure your card is formatted properly and if it's a knockoff, chances are it didn't have enough true space

Yeah that pad is a dead end.

PayPal

I was thinking of tapping the power wire with an inline switcher but that is a much better idea

.150 is the max really due to the resistor though. Right?

Not enough demand

.180ohm is the main number I use, it works for everything and if it doesn't then you need a new laser.

Hello and welcome

eBay has a bunch but no one makes aftermarket shells anymore

I take apart and clean most controllers I purchase, replace joysticks if loose or damaged but I've never seen one like this. The white block is one I've never seen and it screws down unlike the conventional four point solder. 20180127_183558.jpg 20180127_183621.jpg 20180127_183659.jpg 20180127_18374...

Hello and welcome.

For GameCube or N64?

Can't rule out the possibility of needing a replacement laser but if you cannot read the potentiometer it is possible something got spilled or fell into the drive. I would pull the PCB and check the other side before ordering a new laser.