Cloning the GameCube component cable

Portables, case replacements, mods etc, all in here!
andre104623
Posts: 694
Joined: Wed May 07, 2014 2:24 pm

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by andre104623 » Sun Aug 23, 2015 3:46 pm

I love the gcvideo-dvi update unseen :mrgreen: The audio over hdmi works perfectly and the 16:9 is what made my jaw hit the floor. Forcing 16:9 though swiss causes video problems in some games like resident evil remake but from the video board its perfect.
User avatar
Unseen
Posts: 190
Joined: Fri Jul 04, 2014 11:52 am

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by Unseen » Sun Aug 23, 2015 4:22 pm

andre104623 wrote:Forcing 16:9 though swiss causes video problems in some games like resident evil remake but from the video board its perfect.
Forcing 16:9 in Swiss and toggling the setting in GCVideo are two entirely different things though: If you force it via Swiss, it tells the game to change the way it renders it graphics to adapt to a screen that is wider than normal (or less less tall).

If you toggle it in GCVideo, it just tells the TV that it should display the picture by stretching it to the entire screen - the same thing can be accomplished with the "Aspect" button on your TV's remote. If you switch to 16:9 in GCVideo in a game that is not set up to render in 16:9 either natively (e.g. an option in its menu) or by forcing it in Swiss, you will get an image that is horizontally stretched: A circle will no longer be a circle on screen, but instead an ellipse that is wider than it is tall.
Asking for support by PM is anti-social. Ask in an open forum instead, so other people can benefit from the answers!
andre104623
Posts: 694
Joined: Wed May 07, 2014 2:24 pm

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by andre104623 » Sun Aug 23, 2015 5:11 pm

Unseen wrote:
andre104623 wrote:Forcing 16:9 though swiss causes video problems in some games like resident evil remake but from the video board its perfect.
Forcing 16:9 in Swiss and toggling the setting in GCVideo are two entirely different things though: If you force it via Swiss, it tells the game to change the way it renders it graphics to adapt to a screen that is wider than normal (or less less tall).

If you toggle it in GCVideo, it just tells the TV that it should display the picture by stretching it to the entire screen - the same thing can be accomplished with the "Aspect" button on your TV's remote. If you switch to 16:9 in GCVideo in a game that is not set up to render in 16:9 either natively (e.g. an option in its menu) or by forcing it in Swiss, you will get an image that is horizontally stretched: A circle will no longer be a circle on screen, but instead an ellipse that is wider than it is tall.
Ah I see. Still very nice release I like how you kept the SPDIF active as well now I can have my sound bar and TV audio at the same time. I didn't notice any delay in sound from using both. I found out pre-1.3 would not let video be displayed on my TV but 1.3 and 2.0 are completely perfect great job everyone for there hard work into this project. This audio over HDMI will draw more people to the DVI version many people didn't want to do the project for that reason. I wish there was more we can do with the Shuriken video I can't code so and I think happy_bunny dropped support for it so even if I did order more PCB's and use a 200a instead I couldn't code it right for the change
andre104623
Posts: 694
Joined: Wed May 07, 2014 2:24 pm

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by andre104623 » Sun Aug 23, 2015 5:49 pm

XC-3730C wrote:Will anyone be offering a cloned cable for sale? I will take one!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
Got a shuriken video. PMed you
XC-3730C
Posts: 93
Joined: Thu Aug 20, 2015 7:02 am

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by XC-3730C » Sun Aug 23, 2015 11:44 pm

I would like to know how I can get this on my Gamecube

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
User avatar
bentomo
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Jun 05, 2011 6:39 pm

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by bentomo » Mon Aug 24, 2015 8:34 am

No dice on the programming, the JTAG line is not shorting anywhere. Do you think 3.066v is too low for programming?
ImageImageImageImageImageImage
User avatar
Unseen
Posts: 190
Joined: Fri Jul 04, 2014 11:52 am

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by Unseen » Mon Aug 24, 2015 9:57 am

bentomo wrote:No dice on the programming, the JTAG line is not shorting anywhere. Do you think 3.066v is too low for programming?
No, that should be ok - assuming that it's stable and doesn't drop as soon as the FPGA needs more current for programming.
Asking for support by PM is anti-social. Ask in an open forum instead, so other people can benefit from the answers!
User avatar
bentomo
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Jun 05, 2011 6:39 pm

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by bentomo » Tue Aug 25, 2015 6:00 am

Ok so I tested from 3v-3.7v and got two different errors, the first is the original error, the second is a failed ID error complaining that there is no board seen what soever.

Here's a more complete log.

Code: Select all

USB V2.0 detected.

Check configuration setup: Start.
Device#1 LCMXO2-640HC: Failed to verify the ID 
(Expected: 0x012B9043 Read: 0xFFFFFFFF).
Check configuration setup: Unsuccessful.
USB V2.0 detected.

Check configuration setup: Start.
JTAG Chain Verification. No Errors.
Check configuration setup: Successful.
Device1 LCMXO2-640HC: FLASH Erase,Program,Verify
HDR  0
TDR  0
SDR 32   TDI(00000000)
Expected  TDO(012B9043)
Expected MASK(FFFFFFFF)
Received  TDO(01030003)
Bits Error 0022: Expected: 1 Received: 0
Bits Error 0020: Expected: 1 Received: 0
Bits Error 0016: Expected: 1 Received: 0
Bits Error 0013: Expected: 1 Received: 0
Bits Error 0007: Expected: 1 Received: 0
Execution time: 00 min : 00 sec

Failed in Function READ_ID (see log file for more details)

Process Operation Failed.
Elapsed time: 00 min : 01 sec
Operation: unsuccessful.
At this point I feel like it's either my programmer, or I've fried or toasted my chips somehow.

Now just to make sure I'm not making a mistake, I plug in the jtag programmer to the gc-video, plug in usb cord and detect cable with lattice diamond, turn on the 3.3v supply, then program.

I've also tried every order of steps I can think of.
ImageImageImageImageImageImage
User avatar
Unseen
Posts: 190
Joined: Fri Jul 04, 2014 11:52 am

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by Unseen » Tue Aug 25, 2015 7:56 am

bentomo wrote:

Code: Select all

Device#1 LCMXO2-640HC: Failed to verify the ID 
(Expected: 0x012B9043 Read: 0xFFFFFFFF).
In this attempt it appears that nothing (all bits 1) was read back at all, one common problem that causes that is an unconnected JTAG wire.

Code: Select all

Expected  TDO(012B9043)
Expected MASK(FFFFFFFF)
Received  TDO(01030003)
This attempt looks like it was partially successful but some received bits are 0 when they should be 1. I don't have access to the Lattice tools on the machine I'm typing this message on, but I seem to remember an option somewhere to set the JTAG clock speed. You could try to reduce it to around 1 MHz and try again. You could also try to add a pullup resistor (somewhere around 3k to 10k ohm) between TDO (P4 pin 5) and 3.3V (P4 pin 1).
Now just to make sure I'm not making a mistake, I plug in the jtag programmer to the gc-video, plug in usb cord and detect cable with lattice diamond, turn on the 3.3v supply, then program.
Just to ensure that every possibility is covered: You did make sure that the Vtarget and GND wires from the programmer are connected too?
Asking for support by PM is anti-social. Ask in an open forum instead, so other people can benefit from the answers!
User avatar
bentomo
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Jun 05, 2011 6:39 pm

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by bentomo » Tue Aug 25, 2015 5:29 pm

There's a Vtarget pin required for this jtag connection? I just have the 3.3v, gc-video lite, and jtag programmer all sharing the same ground.

Here's my programmer. http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-ISP-Downloa ... 419321cc19

Does the vcc pin double as a vtarget pin? I would imagine that's just the 5v supply from the adapter. Is this the vccio bank mentioned in the programmer configuration documents?

Yea it doesn't look like there's a simple solution for adjusting the TCK speed through diamond or the stand alone programmer, at least not from I can see. There's appears to be a sclock() function that you can add to get a rough adjustment. Apparently TCK can be affected by a lot of things including CPU speed and programmer usb speed fluctuations. According to spec it should not exceed 25MHZ so I'll probe it tonight and see what I find.
ImageImageImageImageImageImage
andre104623
Posts: 694
Joined: Wed May 07, 2014 2:24 pm

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by andre104623 » Tue Aug 25, 2015 6:03 pm

bentomo wrote:There's a Vtarget pin required for this jtag connection? I just have the 3.3v, gc-video lite, and jtag programmer all sharing the same ground.

Here's my programmer. http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-ISP-Downloa ... 419321cc19

Does the vcc pin double as a vtarget pin? I would imagine that's just the 5v supply from the adapter. Is this the vccio bank mentioned in the programmer configuration documents?

Yea it doesn't look like there's a simple solution for adjusting the TCK speed through diamond or the stand alone programmer, at least not from I can see. There's appears to be a sclock() function that you can add to get a rough adjustment. Apparently TCK can be affected by a lot of things including CPU speed and programmer usb speed fluctuations. According to spec it should not exceed 25MHZ so I'll probe it tonight and see what I find.
It's a clone programmer much like my xilinx programmer. It's a long shot but cut those header pin connectors off the JTAG cable and solder the wires right to the JTAG connector of the GCvideo-lite. My connectors never made contact with the JTAG correctly so when I need to program something like the Shuriken video I just built I had to solder the JTAG wires right the JTAG points of the video board and jump PROG B with ground and right before hitting program on IMPACT I had to pull the jumper from PROG B then press program and it would go though.

Clone programmers are very hit and miss. Are you flashing on a windows PC? If so what version of windows, 8.1, 10, 10 pro have problems with the programmers so I use XP now
User avatar
Unseen
Posts: 190
Joined: Fri Jul 04, 2014 11:52 am

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by Unseen » Tue Aug 25, 2015 6:15 pm

bentomo wrote:Does the vcc pin double as a vtarget pin?
That's the one I meant. The name varies between programmers and I didn't have mine available as a reference - it looks identical to the one you linked to.
I would imagine that's just the 5v supply from the adapter.
No - proper JTAG adapters and similar programming tools are not supposed to supply power to the target. Instead they need a connection to the supply voltage of the target so they can set their input and output drivers to operate at the correct levels. If you omitted that connection, it would explain the problems you had.
Is this the vccio bank mentioned in the programmer configuration documents?
The specific bank shouldn't matter for GCVideo lite, they are all running on the same 3.3V supply.
Asking for support by PM is anti-social. Ask in an open forum instead, so other people can benefit from the answers!
User avatar
bentomo
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Jun 05, 2011 6:39 pm

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by bentomo » Fri Aug 28, 2015 3:24 pm

Yup, that was the problem. Programmed successfully on the first try after connecting the Vcc pin. However I've probably fried the DAC in the process. On my test monitor the vga complains that the frequency is out of range. (15khz to 30khz) And doesn't display anything on my 4.3" display, that flashes red, then shows up as no signal. I've got one more monitor I can try but I've probably torched this board with all of the rework that I've done to it when it was just a missing wire. :oops:
ImageImageImageImageImageImage
User avatar
Unseen
Posts: 190
Joined: Fri Jul 04, 2014 11:52 am

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by Unseen » Fri Aug 28, 2015 6:23 pm

bentomo wrote:However I've probably fried the DAC in the process. On my test monitor the vga complains that the frequency is out of range.
H/V/C-Sync arend routed through the DAC, they're buffered by the 74LVC14 - if it's just the DAC, you should still get a black picture if the sync signals are connected and the rest of the board is working.

I also made the mistake of putting some of the vias below then chips too close to the pins, which increases the chance of accidental solder bridges - on one of my boards this created a short between the DAC's clock signal and GND, so I got a nice, black picture with RGBHV and no signal with YPbPr.
Asking for support by PM is anti-social. Ask in an open forum instead, so other people can benefit from the answers!
User avatar
megalomaniac
Posts: 2480
Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:33 am
Location: Drunk in Texas
Contact:

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by megalomaniac » Sun Sep 06, 2015 4:36 am

-- General Warning about Pluto HDMI --

i think i understand now why andre was having so many issues with Pluto HDMI

i received the pluto board from andre and ran a few tests on my TVs. My test results were exactly the same...no TVs worked but a Dell monitor had no issues displaying video. I began to pinout the board and found some pins tied to GND ( SDA, DDCp, and HTP). There was no voltage going across the 100ohm resistor, 4.95v input compared to 30mA output.

since there were traces going under the HDMI connector i had to remove the connector to check the design. Once the connector was removed i verified all traces were correct as per typical HDMI pinout and no traces were tied to GND. Only conclusion left to assume was the HDMI pins were shorted at the factory during production. The short was not visible on inspection so it had to have been shorted under the HDMI connector out of eye sight. I resoldered the HDMI connector and tested once again on my TVs and all of them now recognize a device is plugged in and video is now displayed.


Granted this may have been one of those rare factory production screw ups, its still worth noting these Pluto HDMIs might not be properly tested before being sold. Sorry about your luck andre...
emu_kidid wrote: beer is like WD40 for megalomaniac's brain, gets the gears moving
>>> BadAssConsoles.com <<<

Image Image Image
andre104623
Posts: 694
Joined: Wed May 07, 2014 2:24 pm

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by andre104623 » Sun Sep 06, 2015 3:17 pm

megalomaniac wrote:-- General Warning about Pluto HDMI --

i think i understand now why andre was having so many issues with Pluto HDMI

i received the pluto board from andre and ran a few tests on my TVs. My test results were exactly the same...no TVs worked but a Dell monitor had no issues displaying video. I began to pinout the board and found some pins tied to GND ( SDA, DDCp, and HTP). There was no voltage going across the 100ohm resistor, 4.95v input compared to 30mA output.

since there were traces going under the HDMI connector i had to remove the connector to check the design. Once the connector was removed i verified all traces were correct as per typical HDMI pinout and no traces were tied to GND. Only conclusion left to assume was the HDMI pins were shorted at the factory during production. The short was not visible on inspection so it had to have been shorted under the HDMI connector out of eye sight. I resoldered the HDMI connector and tested once again on my TVs and all of them now recognize a device is plugged in and video is now displayed.


Granted this may have been one of those rare factory production screw ups, its still worth noting these Pluto HDMIs might not be properly tested before being sold. Sorry about your luck andre...
Well I'm glad I gave it to the one person here that would go though the trouble of figuring out why I was having so many problems. Good thing to note that the pluto doesn't have any kind of testing after production before sale. You think they would after paying what I think is a high price tag for the PCB. This other pluto I have has been working great so no errors with this one I guess. This is how my luck works sometimes out of the hundreds of pluto boards they have in stock I get the bad one :roll:
jbvh_
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2015 2:12 am

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by jbvh_ » Thu Sep 10, 2015 2:16 am

Just posting that I had easy success with the latest DVI build with the Pluto II board. Some ChipQuik and an hour or so of soldering made for a super simple process. I am using a BenQ + a 100Ω resistor.
COeJ1G_UsAE0eBu.jpg
(35.94 KiB) Not downloaded yet
Thanks for this! I am going to spread the word of how damn quick this is.
andre104623
Posts: 694
Joined: Wed May 07, 2014 2:24 pm

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by andre104623 » Fri Sep 11, 2015 3:39 am

andre104623 wrote:
megalomaniac wrote:-- General Warning about Pluto HDMI --

i think i understand now why andre was having so many issues with Pluto HDMI

i received the pluto board from andre and ran a few tests on my TVs. My test results were exactly the same...no TVs worked but a Dell monitor had no issues displaying video. I began to pinout the board and found some pins tied to GND ( SDA, DDCp, and HTP). There was no voltage going across the 100ohm resistor, 4.95v input compared to 30mA output.

since there were traces going under the HDMI connector i had to remove the connector to check the design. Once the connector was removed i verified all traces were correct as per typical HDMI pinout and no traces were tied to GND. Only conclusion left to assume was the HDMI pins were shorted at the factory during production. The short was not visible on inspection so it had to have been shorted under the HDMI connector out of eye sight. I resoldered the HDMI connector and tested once again on my TVs and all of them now recognize a device is plugged in and video is now displayed.


Granted this may have been one of those rare factory production screw ups, its still worth noting these Pluto HDMIs might not be properly tested before being sold. Sorry about your luck andre...
Well I'm glad I gave it to the one person here that would go though the trouble of figuring out why I was having so many problems. Good thing to note that the pluto doesn't have any kind of testing after production before sale. You think they would after paying what I think is a high price tag for the PCB. This other pluto I have has been working great so no errors with this one I guess. This is how my luck works sometimes out of the hundreds of pluto boards they have in stock I get the bad one :roll:
Mega asked me to contact the manufacturer about a component on the pluto PCB to see if they could give a replacement part number. 2 days later they reply saying they cant identify the part because they outsource the designs to a Chinese pcb company this also explains why unseen said that the board may or may not have a m25p40 SPI only that it will be at least 4Mbits in size. So if china runs out of m25p40 chips they will just throw on anything they have. I said it before and I will say it again its a very overpriced pcb and now knowing its made in china makes it even worse. But unseens code is perfect this has nothing to do with unseens work just the pcb the code is targeting. Its very unlikely that testing of every pcb is performed before sale to the consumer maybe they test every 5 to 10 boards that comes off the production line.
jbvh_
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2015 2:12 am

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by jbvh_ » Fri Sep 11, 2015 2:46 pm

I'm sure this has been said before to some degree, but here is a picture of the cuts I made to fit the Pluto II next to the power. The only modification to the board I had to make was desoldering the connector for the TXDI interface.

- Red are cuts
- Orange is the desoldering of the TXDI connector
- I was too anxious to go dig for multi-color solid-core wire, so yellow had to do :lol:

Image
andre104623
Posts: 694
Joined: Wed May 07, 2014 2:24 pm

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by andre104623 » Sat Sep 12, 2015 2:57 am

jbvh_ wrote:I'm sure this has been said before to some degree, but here is a picture of the cuts I made to fit the Pluto II next to the power. The only modification to the board I had to make was desoldering the connector for the TXDI interface.

- Red are cuts
- Orange is the desoldering of the TXDI connector
- I was too anxious to go dig for multi-color solid-core wire, so yellow had to do :lol:

Image
Looks somewhat like my install but my pluto isnt upside down. I used yellow wire as well and optical transmitter.
tmp_26579-20150911_172034846565117.jpg
(1.37 MiB) Not downloaded yet
User avatar
bentomo
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Jun 05, 2011 6:39 pm

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by bentomo » Sat Sep 12, 2015 3:35 pm

So after waiting a couple weeks and buying some new chips I'm still having the same issue. I thought I had just fried something when I went up to 3.8v for programming. But after trying 2 monitors and a 4.3" lcd with vga I had to borrow my roommates asus vh242 see if anything was going through. Here's what I got.

Image

Each of the other monitors complained that the video mode was not supported or out of range. It's very green and off center, I also don't get any message from the cube about switching to progressive mode.

I'm wondering if this is my gamecube, it's an old cube that I pulled out of the box and everything was working except I wasn't able to test the digital port for lack of official cable. However it's entirely possible that I toasted something on the cube. I had the reflow station up to 290 C before I could get the digital port off.

I'll probably try another cube soon.

Any ideas?
ImageImageImageImageImageImage
User avatar
Unseen
Posts: 190
Joined: Fri Jul 04, 2014 11:52 am

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by Unseen » Sat Sep 12, 2015 5:47 pm

bentomo wrote:Here's what I got.
That looks a lot like component video (YPbPr) fed into an RGB input. Since you mentioned VGA, I guess that you want an RGB output, so you need to short the two rectanguar solder pads on the top right corner of the board . They're just next to the JTAG connector and there is a small "RGB" label on the edge of the board.
Each of the other monitors complained that the video mode was not supported or out of range. It's very green and off center, I also don't get any message from the cube about switching to progressive mode.
If the Cube has never been used in progressive mode before, it won't prompt you to switch. Hold down B when the game starts to boot and the prompt should show up - it will always ask after the first time, but it should default to progressive on all games.

This may also be the reason why your other monitors complained about unsupported or out-of-range modes, support for 480i over VGA is quite rare.

Oh, and just to be sure: You'll need NTSC versions of the games to use progressive mode, PAL versions do not support it. If it's an NTSC game and the prompt still doesn't show up when you hold B, check that pin 1 on the digital AV port is connected to 3.3V (pin 17).
Asking for support by PM is anti-social. Ask in an open forum instead, so other people can benefit from the answers!
andre104623
Posts: 694
Joined: Wed May 07, 2014 2:24 pm

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by andre104623 » Sat Sep 12, 2015 6:58 pm

bentomo wrote:So after waiting a couple weeks and buying some new chips I'm still having the same issue. I thought I had just fried something when I went up to 3.8v for programming. But after trying 2 monitors and a 4.3" lcd with vga I had to borrow my roommates asus vh242 see if anything was going through. Here's what I got.

Image

Each of the other monitors complained that the video mode was not supported or out of range. It's very green and off center, I also don't get any message from the cube about switching to progressive mode.

I'm wondering if this is my gamecube, it's an old cube that I pulled out of the box and everything was working except I wasn't able to test the digital port for lack of official cable. However it's entirely possible that I toasted something on the cube. I had the reflow station up to 290 C before I could get the digital port off.

I'll probably try another cube soon.

Any ideas?
Where did you get the DAC chips? Digikey has been out of stock for a while now. @unseen can a alternative DAC chip be used only ones i found were in china and I'm wary of ordering components from there after the bad ram chips i got for my xbox mod.
User avatar
bentomo
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Jun 05, 2011 6:39 pm

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by bentomo » Sat Sep 12, 2015 7:21 pm

They're in Stock on mouser. Digikey has them, they just have a minimum order quantity of 250.

@unseen
Those pads would explain a lot. I thought I had to short them to use your and left them unconnected to use via. :/ if it's another silly mistake I'm glad I'm documenting them. I definitely want to do that writeup.

Thanks, I'll update again soon.
ImageImageImageImageImageImage
User avatar
Unseen
Posts: 190
Joined: Fri Jul 04, 2014 11:52 am

Re: Cloning the GameCube component cable

Post by Unseen » Sat Sep 12, 2015 9:06 pm

andre104623 wrote:Where did you get the DAC chips? Digikey has been out of stock for a while now. @unseen can a alternative DAC chip be used only ones i found were in china and I'm wary of ordering components from there after the bad ram chips i got for my xbox mod.
I'm not aware of any direct pin-compatible replacements. The CDK3405 is very similar, but has a slightly different pinout which would require a modified layout.

Other DACs could probably also be used, as long as it has three channels of 8 bits or more each, is fast enough for 480p (27 MHz pixel clock) and has an option to add an offset on one channel so syncs can be generated for Y in component mode. If you don't mind a rather large board, an R2R DAC with ~50 resistors could be used, but to actually get the full 8 bits of resolution per channel on the output you'd have to use better than 0.5% tolerance resistors. Just for kicks I tried a "DAC-free" output once using sigma-delta modulation which looked fine on a CRT, but horrible on an LCD, so that's not really an option.
bentomo wrote:I thought I had to short them to use your and left them unconnected to use via.
I think you should tell your spell checker that YUV and VGA don't need to be "corrected" ;)
Asking for support by PM is anti-social. Ask in an open forum instead, so other people can benefit from the answers!
Post Reply