Shuriken Video

[happy_bunny]

Hi all

not sure if anyone is interested in this, its bacially a gamecube digital port to DVI / HDMI converter.

http://www.staffs2.webspace.virginmedia ... 0video.htm

schematics / PCB artwork are on my website have fun doing my classic of getting ten boards made if anyone is interested, you will need to solder this board onto the gamecubes digital port. Not sure the best way to do this yet have some ideas, also I have not started on the case yet its on my todo list.

[megalomaniac]

does this project still produce only DVI video signal over HDMI with no audio except for SPDIF output to an external amplifier? or does it include additional mods to the previous code other than recompiling for the alternate fpga used?




a few notes about the digital port to help out anyone interested in this:

the best way to remove the digital port is to gently destroy the connector...i say gently because its difficult to remove and caution must be taken not to destroy any of the traces

1. cut away the 4 large metal connector housing tabs
2. bend the connector up and away from the mainboard
3. cut all the pins from the connector
4. desolder every pin 1 by 1
5. clear all holes of solder

or use hot air to pull everything at once


once all pins are removed from the mainboard: either solder wires directly into the holes or maybe reuse the pins connected to wires then solder those into the holes...both of these solutions are not ideal since it involves wireporn but it will work...
if any of the traces are damaged during desoldering, then the wire must be soldered directly to the AVE or other location depending on which trace was damaged...







a few additional notes to save time/trouble since all this info has already been researched and attempted with trial and error:

1. pin thickness and pin spacing are GC custom spec
2. standard size header pins will not fit in the digital port holes
3. the next size smaller than standard header pins will not fit in the digital port holes
4. machined DIP sockets will not fit into the digital port spacing
5. only if the digital port holes are 100% cleared of all solder will they be able to fit a pin with a thickness of ~0.40mm to ~0.45mm
6. during earlier searches i was not able to locate any supplier with header pins having a thickness less than 0.45mm
7. avoid hotglue...once its all together and works, epoxy everything to prevent wires from coming loose and shorting something out
8. in internal only build is desired, avoid any type of permanent mounting the board onto the back panel since you may need to take off that panel in the future for some unknown reason and cannot due to this being mounted







@happy_bunny
maybe consider a minor redesign of the PCB with the HDMI connector mounted at a right angle from its current location...
this will allow for a better internal fit. A board that size can be sticky taped onto the drive cage itself in a small open area between the DVD drive and drive cage..then a cutout can be made on the back panel to allow insertion of the HDMI cable into the connector..

internal mounting will also benefit because it will minimize less potential wire stress, less potential wire breaks, and any other issues typically associated with wire porn. Also this will eliminate the need to design and build any type of external housing for the pcb while eliminating the above mentioned potential wire issues which will arise from an externally "wired" design...

[andre104623]

Very cool happy_bunny bravo. Keep up the good work PMed you

[badsector]

I would take one to test, if sound via HDMI would work. Maybe the next version ^^

[andre104623]

@happy_bunny Do you have a D-terminal, Scart, or component cable to test your design to the real cables? Will it run Unseen's OSD for his GCvideo-DVI version since you based your PCB off his DVI version? Just wondering, I have a component cable to compare between your Design and nintendo's cable

[andre104623]

@mega and happy_bunny instead of removing the port how bout this:

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As you can see I already placed some solder on those huge pads This took me less then 2 minutes to do and there is only 4 pads you have to desolder

[andre104623]

Now added some wire and fish the wire back though the connector then you could solder it back down with the 2 points on the side of the metal casing

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[andre104623]

Now all 22 wires soldered and the metal casing soldered back down

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This was very easy and you don't have to worry about f***ing up traces. I'm sure some hot glue or epoxy across the wires would be a good idea but this mobo is dead and I use it to practice or try stuff like this on so its fine.

This would look a lot better with some IDE wire and a connector on the end but if I were to install the GCvideo/Shuriken video inside the gamecube then I would remove the port completely.

If you look at the connector on the mobo you will see that the casing is in two parts. The rear piece can be cut off without messing up the front just be careful. Once the rear piece is removed now you just have the front piece that is soldered on both sides. De-solder the 2 points and if you look closely the casing is clipped to the plastic inside the connector so take a very small flat-head driver and pop the clip on both sides. Then just pull back on the metal casing and there you go nice big pads to solder to and no messed up traces

[andre104623]

After reading the GCvideo-DVI page all I can say is wow. I failed at the GCvideo 0.9 lite well sort of...I did build the PCB and flashed it but when I used it there was lines in the picture and was cutting in and out. I must of messed something up but I haven't tried fixing it yet but this is a lot better for me since it comes made already and hopefully isn't $70!!! like the Pluto 2x HDMI is. The GCvideo-lite project wasn't cheap ether but there was a lot of labor and wires and like mega I also hate wireporn it makes everything so messy and the wires can come loose after time or break. Hopefully someone can overcome these wires not like the Mega3 QSB but a plug-and-play sort-of connector because the mega3 was really cool but you still had to remove the connector which can mess your console if your not careful

[happy_bunny]

@megalomaniac
5. only if the digital port holes are 100% cleared of all solder will they be able to fit a pin with a thickness of ~0.40mm to ~0.45mm
6. during earlier searches i was not able to locate any supplier with header pins having a thickness less than 0.45mm

all headers are square what if we change the problem to finding the right pin size, 0.45mm * sqr root of 2 gives a diameter of 0.63mm now I need to find something that is less then 0.63mm round DIP socket pins fit and if you break them up the pitch will fit however the pin length is to small

These fit with a diameter of 0.6mm and a length of 7mm is just enough to fit across my board and into the gc board if I keep the bottom housing of the 3D case to 3mm.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/flexible-jump ... ngth-fs66w

they are basically male pin crimp connectors, connected to wires of 50mm in length. RS do loads of this type of connector need to get the right size.

@ badsector / megalomaniac
at the heart of all this is

http://hamsterworks.co.nz/mediawiki/index.php/Dvid_test

which basically uses DVI over HDMI so no sound, and to make it worse you have to pay for the HDMI standard so if you want sound you basically need to buy the HDMI standard which is never going to happen for open source project, so you will be waiting a long time for the next version

there are ways around this you can use something like a ADV7511 HDMI transmitter where basically the chip supplier has paid to use the standard and then provided the end user with an interface to the standard see

http://hamsterworks.co.nz/mediawiki/ind ... rd_HDMI_v2

however that would require two chips one to convert the gc signals into standard RGB basically an FPGA running gcvideo, it would then pass this info into the ADV7511. This is not cheap and not straight forward it can be done but would require a lot more time and another PCB.

@ andre104623

going to try and stay away from wireporn as like you said

I also hate wireporn it makes everything so messy and the wires can come loose after time or break.

so basically my idea is to use the male crimp connector from maplin as pins into the gc board, the connector will need to be removed but hopefully after that it will not break / come loose.

[megalomaniac]

im pretty sure ive previously shown the way to get around the digital port connector a couple of years ago....
while it does require removing the port, it serves as a solid replacement...maybe you could go that route but will require a pcb to fcc
it did work well and it did serve its purpose but i have not stopped working on finding the ultimate solution....


obviously there will be easier ways to connect a video board to the digital port coming soon....a universal "final solution"
...multiple solutions actually
...even a connectivity solution for those cheap bastards out there....

[andre104623]

im pretty sure ive previously shown the way to get around the digital port connector a couple of years ago....
while it does require removing the port, it serves as a solid replacement...maybe you could go that route but will require a pcb to fcc
it did work well and it did serve its purpose but i have not stopped working on finding the ultimate solution....


obviously there will be easier ways to connect a video board to the digital port coming soon....a universal "final solution"
...multiple solutions actually
...even a connectivity solution for those cheap bastards out there....

Shit I have a feeling I'm going to be spending a lot of money at badassconsoles this year it will be worth it though.

[happy_bunny]

i think i posted to early sorry was just happy to get something working anyway the plan is to add pins like this

pin1.jpg

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then test it and put into into a case like this

pin2.jpg

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so the end user can just plug and play, will solder pins and play like this

pin3.jpg

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[novenary]

Ouch, I'd rather not have stuff sticking outside the back of my console.

[andre104623]

i think i posted to early sorry was just happy to get something working anyway the plan is to add pins like this

pin1.jpg

then test it and put into into a case like this

pin2.jpg

so the end user can just plug and play, will solder pins and play like this

pin3.jpg

That's not a bad idea ether. I would like to see what mega has in store for these clone component devices even for the broke bastards out there.

@happy_bunny I think your over thinking the plug and play connection because anyone that's going to try a project like this is going to have basic soldering skills at least. Taking the port off is a project in its self then after you get it off your still going to solder pins into the shuriken video though I will say that your idea will get rid of the wireporn and with the case its a nice touch meaning it doesn't look like a mad scientist experiment hanging out of the back of the GameCube.

[andre104623]

i think i posted to early sorry was just happy to get something working anyway the plan is to add pins like this

pin1.jpg

then test it and put into into a case like this

pin2.jpg

so the end user can just plug and play, will solder pins and play like this

pin3.jpg

That's not a bad idea ether. I would like to see what mega has in store for these clone component devices even for the broke bastards out there.

@happy_bunny I think your over thinking the plug and play connection because anyone that's going to try a project like this is going to have basic soldering skills at least. Taking the port off is a project in its self then after you get it off your still going to solder pins into the shuriken video though I will say that your idea will get rid of the wireporn and with the case its a nice touch meaning it doesn't look like a mad scientist experiment hanging out of the back of the GameCube.

Now after looking at it I noticed those pins. Mega said he couldn't find header pins that would fit into the points of the connector so will the shuriken video come with those pins pre-installed in the board? Then when say I receive it in the mail all I have to do is remove the Digital port then place the shuriken video on the pads and solder it in correct? Now does all the solder have to be removed from the ports for the pins to fit or do you have some wiggle room to play with? Thanks sorry for the questions

[happy_bunny]

@Streetwalker

it dont look that bad if you have the other av connector in (for audio)

pin4.jpg

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@ andre104623

yes thats correct once you do the hard part ie get the old connector off the board it should be easy as pie well thats the idea. You cant find pin headers that fit they use sqaure pins of the wrong size. I used male crimp connectors which are 0.6mm I think the hole size is 0.62mm so you have a little 0.02mm wiggle room (its a small amount but its good ie the pins fit nicely with a little bit of space no jamming them in).

[andre104623]

@Streetwalker

it dont look that bad if you have the other av connector in (for audio)

pin4.jpg

@ andre104623

yes thats correct once you do the hard part ie get the old connector off the board it should be easy as pie well thats the idea. You cant find pin headers that fit they use sqaure pins of the wrong size. I used male crimp connectors which are 0.6mm I think the hole size is 0.62mm so you have a little 0.02mm wiggle room (its a small amount but its good ie the pins fit nicely with a little bit of space no jamming them in).

Well then put me down for one because I'm very excited to try it out. Now in your design is there a SPDIF out like the Pluto 2x or the xilinx chip that you used can't handle that? It took me a while but I just realized that this is a clone of the Pluto 2x which I think is a first. Very cool

[megalomaniac]

i like that design...some great out of the box thinking....
literally out of the box (cube)


i am concerned with the calculations you state of 0.02mm wiggle room...
this is hardly any kind of wiggle room at all...for those in the USA this equals 0.000787402 inches wiggle room...


lets put this wiggle room into perspective....
0.02mm = 20,000 nanometers
the thickness of a human hair is about 100,000 nanometers
so the calculated wiggle room is about 1/5 the thickness of a human hair??


i understand you used eyeball estimation...
i do this too....but either way the thickness of the pins and possible estimated wiggle room kinda automatically suggest all solder on the connector port must be 100% cleared to allow the these pins to fit...what is concerning is the tolerance for wiggle room specifically because the pins shown in images pin1.jpg and pin2.jpg appear to be crooked in relation to each other...

going back to clearing all the solder from the connector port holes....this requires temperature, pressure, and time...
to much of any one of these will result in damage to a trace...

i highly advise not using those thick crimp male type pins which allow so little wiggle room...instead take a look at some PNP/NPN transistor legs...or maybe the thinner 3mm type LED legs...you will find these to fit much easier into the connector port holes...
....but also i must point out no matter if using these thin transistor legs or even the slightly thicker crimp male ends pins, stress related problems will always exist at the solder joints...you will be lucky if only the pin itself breaks cleanly but you may find over time a solder joint will lift a trace from either the mainboard or the video board itself since this external housing design happens to also accidentally be designed as a fully functional fulcrum....
fulcrums always win...consoles / pcbs always lose...




another quick thought...
looking at pin3.jpg....judging from external housing of the video board and its proximity to the GC case screw hole, this housing is larger than the original GC digital port's footprint...
How large is the hole that must be cut away from the GC back panel shell to fit this video board housing? Could you also post a pic of that too?
This im real curious about since the back panel needs to kinda slide in and up and down into the bottom case and with the length of the video board housing sticking out like that i assume there would need to be a large hole cut out from the backpanel to prevent the built in fulcrum from activating...i guess there is no stopping the fulcrum really since even plugging in an HDMI cable will activate the fulcrum action....




ok more more quick thought...
looking again at pin3.jpg...
right behind the video board housing your PAL mainboard has a resistor bank...
NTSC consoles have large capacitors there....
NTSC caps are closer to the digital port shielding than the PAL resistor bank to the digital port shielding...
this difference is shown below with the orange line and C17 as reference since this component is in the same location for both NTSC and PAL mainboards...
while it may not seem like much, there is about 4mm to 5mm clearance difference to consider for your final design specs...

[Unseen]

Will it run Unseen's OSD for his GCvideo-DVI version since you based your PCB off his DVI version?

It should be able to if you put an XC3S200A on it instead of the XC3S50A that is visible in the pictures. The OSD is a bit of a space hog, with it the FPGA on the Pluto IIx is currently about 85% full (although that number is debatable)

[happy_bunny]

I was going for a cheap board so basic functionality over features, having said that do you thing the audio stuff will fit in the XC3S50A ? its about 50% full (I think need to check) with just the gc to dvi stuff in at the moment.

[Unseen]

I was going for a cheap board so basic functionality over features, having said that do you thing the audio stuff will fit in the XC3S50A ? its about 50% full (I think need to check) with just the gc to dvi stuff in at the moment.

SPDIF should fit. I have no idea how big audio-in-video will be - IIRC the NeoGeoHDMI project fills about 40% of an XC3S200A, but since it's not modularized it's hard to say which part of that is for the audio encapsulation.

[andre104623]

The OSD and SPDIF isn't a deal breaker for me I just wanted to know if it would work. I'm not sure how the SPDIF works like at all so I'm in no rush to get it working at this point. I need to read up on coaxial SPDIF input and optical transmitter's because from what I read on the GCvideo-dvi page you need a buffer circuit OR a 3.3v optical transmitter so does that mean I can wire a optical transmitter directly to the Pluto 2x HDMI as long it's 3.3v or do you still need a buffer circuit?

[Unseen]

so does that mean I can wire a optical transmitter directly to the Pluto 2x HDMI as long it's 3.3v or do you still need a buffer circuit?

You can wire an optical SPDIF transmitter directly to the Pluto board, no additional buffer needed.

[andre104623]

so does that mean I can wire a optical transmitter directly to the Pluto 2x HDMI as long it's 3.3v or do you still need a buffer circuit?

You can wire an optical SPDIF transmitter directly to the Pluto board, no additional buffer needed.

OK, so after looking at the datasheet of the lite-on that you have on your page the VIN pin would be going to SPDIF output, VDD pin to 3.3v on GameCube reg, GND to any GND pin on Pluto correct? Thanks in advance