Okay, I'm sorry I was a bit snarky. I just popped a burned copy of the Swiss ISO into my drive and it does show up as CDFS in Windows as well, which isn't the case with game backups.
The "AML" MID is 3rd-class media according to digitalfaq (cheap, unreliable, or complete junk), so the chances that you could get them to work at all are low. I bought some cheap Chinese media that had the "AML" MID as well, and they were garbage due to a faulty surface on all the discs. I
did get them to work, but I had to lower the pot a lot (down to 130 Ohms while the drive could read 12cm Taiyo Yuden at 315 Ohms, and the original setting was 326 Ohms) and they kept skipping or throwing DREs whenever the laser reached the end of the disc.
If you still want to get your discs working, start by setting the burning speed to 4x instead of AWS (ImgBurn likely resolves AWS to 4x, but just to be sure). My AML media didn't work at all at 2x. Then, you could try using different burners, possibly on different computers. Finally, you can try setting your pot even lower, but then you run the risk of burning your laser, especially if you'll be playing original games as well.
If I were you, I'd just go with media that's known to work, and to work well. That
Club Myce forum post has a list of media that's known to work (but not necessarily well). While you're looking for good Mini-DVDs, you can also try using full-sized DVDs with the top of the case off, just to see if you can get any burned media to work at all.
Otherwise, if you only want to run Swiss to launch games from an SD card and avoid discs altogether, you can use a save game exploit. However, it's not quite as convenient, as some of them (such as PokeLoad with Pokemon XD) can take up to a minute or so to load Swiss. Also, the compressed version of Swiss you end up having to use isn't as reliable as the uncompressed one. I've had some trouble launching games that way with the latest revision of Swiss (r377), although it worked fine with an earlier one (r371).