XenoGC issue (nothing helped to me)

TALANTO · Post by **TALANTO** » Sun Jun 01, 2014 4:37 pm

Hi all, I read topics with the same issue but nothing worked to me.

I have black PAL gamecube. I soldered xenogc mod chip and it seems to work. When I hold "start" while loading game it displays something like "XenoShell 1.0.5", some kind of circle and when I press "A" - "Loading_PAL". If I press "Y" while booting (only on King Kong game) it forces display to 60Hz. Also the LED on chip flashes couple times red (sometimes 2, sometimes 3) and then yellow/orange and it stays orange.

I have burned some games on different media mini dvds and big dvds but always got "No disk" message. It starts spinning some disks but it's interesting that the most expensive disks "Verbatim" even not start spinning.

I have tried everything - adjusting the pot (the original was 233 ohms, down it to 188 ohms). I didn't want to go under 180 ohms. I also flipped the board and checked the soldering, everything was fine, there aren't any shorts. I cleaned the lens with 95% alcohol. I tried different brand dvds.

I wanted to try different region official game but I don't have one.

What's wrong with my gamecube? Can anybody help me?
Thanks!

marcus9199 · Post by **marcus9199** » Sun Jun 01, 2014 5:22 pm

I'm not an expert but most of the old tutorials said the same never adjust below 180 on the pot. But a lot of the newer posts I saw people were adjusting all the way down to 130. So I started going lower I now have gamecube that read anything. I don't know the long term effects but I've been finding gamecube s at thrift stores for ten bucks so I an stocked up on them.

TALANTO · Post by **TALANTO** » Sun Jun 01, 2014 5:56 pm

Maybe I will adjust the pot again.

Tomorrow I will buy more dvds and will try some ideas:
-burn with different cd burnder;
-burn a backup that I made;

Also I made solder joints really thin, please tell me if it's necessary to add more solder to them.

novenary · Post by **novenary** » Sun Jun 01, 2014 6:41 pm

If the chip works don't touch the soldering.

Some info I gathered :
-The burner matters
-Verbatim disks are the best
-The pot can be set way down, like 0 if you want to read DVD-RW.

TALANTO · Post by **TALANTO** » Sun Jun 01, 2014 8:37 pm

Streetwalker wrote:If the chip works don't touch the soldering.
-Verbatim disks are the best

Yes, here also Verbatim are known as the best discs, and I've payed more than twice (mini dvd only) than maxell. And it's strange that gamecube even does not want spin the disk (big Verbatim too).

megalomaniac · Post by **megalomaniac** » Mon Jun 02, 2014 12:05 am

there is no set value to how low you can go...
i use anywhere between 6 - 100 ohm on some of my drives

test your disc using the lowest possible value you can measure...if it doesnt work, then maybe its a bad write...
try a different burner or different burner software...

YouTube · Post by **emu_kidid** » Mon Jun 02, 2014 2:45 am

If you're seeing the "Shell" screen, then the modchip is working fine. No disc is because your laser is failing. Badly written media would throw you other errors like "Read error has occurred".

novenary · Post by **novenary** » Mon Jun 02, 2014 5:10 am

Yeah if it still doesn't work, get a new laser.
More info : http://www.gc-forever.com/wiki/index.ph ... ser_Tuning

TALANTO · Post by **TALANTO** » Mon Jun 02, 2014 8:17 pm

Thanks for the help, you gave me courage to adjust the pot. It's now 120 ohms and reads Maxell ONLY (probably Verbatims are fake) but small programs like Gameboy player disk and Swiss. Maybe I need to tweak the pot again because sometimes I need to blow the lens to recognize it.

TALANTO · Post by **TALANTO** » Tue Jul 01, 2014 9:18 am

I opened another PAL indigo blue gamecube DOL-001 (sticker on the bottom) and according to this website the pot should be 450 to 600 ohm. But it was 172/173 ohm, it's worst than my previous black Gamecube which was 233 ohm.

The factory settings of the potentiometer varied from DOL-001 with a value range of 450 ohm - 600 ohm while the DOL-101 had a value range of 150 ohm - 250 ohm.

I think that it was not opened before but who knows. If anybody can tell me is it adjusted before or this is the stock value?

And should I thing that the laser on the black one is in better shape?

Edit:
I opened the next Black DOL-001 Gamecube (from the same seller as the blue one) and it was definitely opened. One of the two plates near the controller ports was tilted backwards. But this time the pot was 499/500 ohm.

Now I only need to know is it true that 500 ohm laser is better than 233 ohm laser which is better than 173 ohm laser?

If you are wondering I have one more Gamecube but I don't want to open it.

novenary · Post by **novenary** » Tue Jul 01, 2014 1:10 pm

Each cube is different. The pot value has nothing to do with the model, it's unit specific.

XenoGC issue (nothing helped to me)

XenoGC issue (nothing helped to me)

Re: XenoGC issue (nothing helped to me)

Re: XenoGC issue (nothing helped to me)

Re: XenoGC issue (nothing helped to me)

Re: XenoGC issue (nothing helped to me)

Re: XenoGC issue (nothing helped to me)

Re: XenoGC issue (nothing helped to me)

Re: XenoGC issue (nothing helped to me)

Re: XenoGC issue (nothing helped to me)

Re: XenoGC issue (nothing helped to me)

Re: XenoGC issue (nothing helped to me)