I bought a ratcheting screw driver with 20 bits, two being the triangles for like 9$ Note that the + screws inside are PH1's and not philips, so buy the screwdriver.
Open up the controller and be gentle with the internals, wiggle around the wire exit to break it free. When you pull out the circuit board the membranes will be loose so just places them back on the inside with the buttons upside down cause theyll fall out the other way. -To avoid stripping or marking grooves into the plastic with the screws spin them counter clockwise until you feel a click of the threads setting into place then screw in to align the threads.
The D- PAD membrane is the culprit, try to readjust the membrane and its difficult to tell if its good until you try it; it need alignment to press those buttons well. The thing is, Some of the membranes are all flat and unsatisfying. Theyre made differently and you need to find a golden controller OR buy new replacement membranes for like 4$. I havent tried buying replacements personally but I did find them out there, try places like aliexpress for good prices if you cant find them elsewhere.
I have a few controllers and my some of the membranes were stronger in press feel, so I took them all apart and grabbed most of the best ones and swapped them into one controller. The prized *Player 1 controller*, sorry player two.
Its when one direction arrow feels soft unlike the others its probably an alignment issue so open it up and fiddle with it till you get nice presses. The D-PAD can be mitigated.
**********Ultimately, I think the D-PAD needs individually isolated pressed buttons instead of an arrow disc.
OEM gamecube controller; flimsy D-PAD fix (situational)
Re: OEM gamecube controller; flimsy D-PAD fix (situational)
It’s great to see tips on alignment and membrane adjustments, and I like the suggestion to experiment with different membranes to improve the button feel.
Pokerogue
Pokerogue