1 2 3

1 - Trigger Analog
2 - Ground
3 - 3.43v

You can do both the Analog and Digital of the Trigger with just 1 Tact switch, 2 Resistors and an NPN Transistor like the 3904. The Trigger button is common ground, so it goes Lo to activate, but the Trigger Analog is Lo at rest and goes Hi to fully activate. If you use a single Tact switch connecte...

I do have 2 blank boards here currently, and I can always have more of those made up.

I don't have any fully built ones on hand.

Yes they are.

k = kilo or 1,000
M = Mega or 1,000,000

32.768kHz is the same as 32,768 or Thirty-two thousand seven hundred and sixty-eight Hertz. It's a very common frequency for any RTC (Real Time Clock) applications as 2^15 = 32768.

Welcome

X2 is the RTC crystal, 32.768kHz

The Rumble and 5v have nothing to do with how the controller works, so if you didn't have the Slides wired up before, but do now, then reconnecting the Rumble and 5v should be fine and the Slides were causing the issue.

My prototype has the Sticks and Slides wired up, so no Analog functions are left to float. I meant if you powered the main 3.43v spot with 5v, that would most likely kill it. If you have everything wired up correctly then I've no idea what the issue is. The MCU could have been damaged when you swapp...

Honestly, I've no real idea since I didn't build and test it out here or know how you have it wired up there, so it could be anything. Make sure all of the Analog functions are wired up, Left Stick, Right Stick, and Slide Left/Right. Since they are Analog and not Digital like a button, any of those ...

Currently I do not have 3DS2AN boards made up, though I do have a few PCBs here and just need to order the components, flash the PIC and populate the PCB to have one ready to go. You can PM me for details there.

Welcome.

Correct, the + and - at the bottom of the PCB is for the Analog Sticks as well as the Sliders, SIDE-R and SIDE-L as they are Analog as well. I have no plans to release the Gerber files currently. You only bought the last 2 that I currently had made up and were ready to be sold. I still have a few mo...

You can make it fit there, or just toss it and jumper F1 as it's only for the Rumble motor and I've never seen one go bad. Rest is the same.

Welcome, any issues or questions let me know.

I have 2 blank boards available, if you're interested you can PM me.

I still have a couple of blank PCBs around. You can PM me for details.

In that case, ditch that thing and get yourself a Teensy 3.1 instead. No LM317, no level shifting and you'll really enjoy not having to skirt that 1us issue with a 16MHz setup as you can OC it to 96MHz max.

Power your AT board from the 3.43v (3.3v) of the controller port, it's not a 5v only board, then you can ditch the level converter.

I had to dig all of this and the schematic for the wired controller back out and tinker with it again, it's been awhilw. I recall now Q1 being in there paralleled with the motor for a brake, and that all makes sense now as it's controlled by that other bit. xxxxxx00 = Motor off, no Rumble. xxxxxx01 ...

Yes there are. PM me what you're looking for.

What about alternating the on/off Rumble bit in a PWM type fashion to lower/raise the motor speed. Making a new wireless Transmitter/Receiver for the wired controller would also mean designing a way to power it. Be it making a new Transmitter to strip out the Rumble bit and send that to a Receiver i...

It's the last bit that controls the Rumble, 1 for on, 0 for off.

The 5v is only 5v. It's power, not any kind of Rumble control signal at all. When the GC is on, there is 5v there, when it's off, it's off, that's all it does.

The Rumble control signal is on the Data line. It's the last bit of the 3 byte command sent to the controller.

It's not a matter of room for a motor, that can be done. Nor is it a matter of sending just the 5v signal to the controller. That 5v is power for the Rumble circuit, it's not the signal from the game that turns the motor on/off that makes the Rumble.