gc-forever - Gamecube/Wii Forums

This is great! It's almost a softmod somewhat like Ps2 freeboot if we could upload the save into memory card with the same console your trying to exploit. I need to try this when I get time is swiss.dol possible to load by this method?

Yeah, everything "should" work, Swiss worked.

Just to give some feedback for the Super Smash Bros. Melee Exploit.
I have a PAL Version and can not get it to work.
The GC just resets. I have the exploit and swiss (input name boot.dol) on the memory card as savegame. I also have the XenoGC in my Cube if that matters.

I have one Question about the GBP.
Is it technically possible to dump game and savegame via Gameboy Player? I would really hope to see that in the future, if possible.

A reset either mean the payload is corrupted or it couldn't load boot.dol. What kind of memory card do you have?

psprofi wrote:Is it technically possible to dump game and savegame via Gameboy Player? I would really hope to see that in the future, if possible.

This is planned.

The card that is not working is a Noname 4MB Card.

I found an other Card and with it its working. That is a 16MB third party card from BigBen

Sadly the 16MB Card is full of Savegames
I try around with the 4MB one

psprofi wrote:The card that is not working is a Noname 4MB Card.

I found an other Card and with it its working. That is a 16MB third party card from BigBen

Sadly the 16MB Card is full of Savegames
I try around with the 4MB one

Try formatting it, maybe the boot.dol blocks are scattered and it isn't workibg due to the file not being continuous in the mc?

Thanks for the tip.
I formated the mc with gcmm on gc and used the buildin mcmanager to copy the savegames.
And it works.
Now i need a small simple dol loader with SDGecko Support on SlotB. Lets google

Just use Swiss for that.

Streetwalker wrote:Just use Swiss for that.

Nice idea but it does not fit.
48 Blocks free, Swiss need 113.

Ah yeah, indeed. A stripped down dol loader should do the trick and fit in a few blocks.

Streetwalker wrote:Ah yeah, indeed. A stripped down dol loader should do the trick and fit in a few blocks.

Like SDLoad????

Or put Swiss as autoexec.dol on the SD card and quit GBI to load it.

Lander wrote:Like SDLoad????

SD Load never started for me. Always a green screen. (The only Homebrew, i tried, that do that)

Extrems wrote:Or put Swiss as autoexec.dol on the SD card and quit GBI to load it.

I did not realized that it is possible. Thanks

But a small Homebrew that start a dol from SD on Slot A or B would be great.
I would do it myself, but i don't have knowledge for that.

psprofi wrote:

Lander wrote:Like SDLoad????

But a small Homebrew that start a dol from SD on Slot A or B would be great.
I would do it myself, but i don't have knowledge for that.

What about a very small homebrew that starts sdload.bin? Or is that what gives a green screen? There's a dol version of sdloader A&B (don't know how many blocks though).

suloku wrote: There's a dol version of sdloader A&B (don't know how many blocks though).

Thats the Homebrew i tried and just shows a green screen.

Please post any chat related to Home Bros. in the proper thread from now on:
viewtopic.php?f=38&t=3023

Can ULL run in fake widescreen? How do I switch games in ULL?

I loaded via Home Bros and I noticed my video mode was dictated by what Melee was at, how do I load 240p?

No, it cannot. Hold the reset button while ejecting/inserting the cartridge, or just rip it out then reset.
Any particular reason for wanting 240p over 480p?

Hear it's nicer when upscaled.

Thanks for this, Extrems and dansalvato! It really rocks, as i can now help some friends to use this GBI beauty on their cubes.

Smashbro29 wrote:Hear it's nicer when upscaled.

I'm not sure, but i guess you could use the config injector published before by another user, and use the parameters you want before converting to GCI.

2 questions:

- Anyone knows the pad combination for exiting GBI to loader?
- Where to get the latest Swiss DOL?

I've done quite a lot of testing with GBI, and I'd like to share the information I gathered for anyone who has trouble with it, especially with the ULL version.

First off, I've found GBI LL to be working with all outputs and all displays that I've tried (that includes the Framemeister, a late 90's Sony CRT TV and a Samsung HDTV with both an NTSC and a PAL GC over composite, S-video, RGB and component). I haven't tried the regular GBI much because it adds too much latency to my liking, but of course this version should work on pretty much all displays due to its normal refresh rate. I would then personally recommend GBI LL over GBI, though the latter does have a couple of nice features that might appeal to you.

Now to the main meat: GBI ULL. On the Samsung HDTV, it kind of worked but only on component, on other outputs the signal 'jumped' from times to times. But anyway the TV adds enough latency of its own that it defeats the purpose of ULL. On the CRT TV, which I only tested S-video on, it displayed fine, except in black and white (not a wiring issue as GBI LL worked fine). Sadly I can't test other inputs because I don't have access to the TV very often, though I imagine it will behave like the Framemeister. With this upscaler (connected to a PC monitor), it also displayed in black and white over S-video, as well as with composite (meaning it's really a timing issue with the colour information and not a problem with the chromance signal of S-video, as Extrems mentionned before). With component, the Framemeister didn't display anything, but the Samsung TV proved that it does work (and even displays it in 240p). The last output option, thankfully did work: with RGB (and as such, a PAL GC) it did end up displaying colour, making it the only combination of outputs+display I own that fully works with GBI ULL and makes sense (since the Framemeister+PC monitor offers lower latency than most HDTVs).
As a final note, I've noticed that GBI ULL, with all output methods and displays, showed some weird tearing line that span about 10 pixels in height, but they only appear after about 2 minutes of uptime, and disappear 1 minute later. Not sure what that's about.

tl;dr: My personal tests showed that the Framemeister only works with GBI ULL when using RGB, which requires a PAL GC.

Hopefully this post will help a few people And don't hesitate to share your own experiences, especially if they differ from mine.

Miomjon wrote:As a final note, I've noticed that GBI ULL, with all output methods and displays, showed some weird tearing line that span about 10 pixels in height, but they only appear after about 2 minutes of uptime, and disappear 1 minute later. Not sure what that's about.

The line pattern is an artifact of how the rendering works.

GBI ULL tears when the GC and GBA are sufficiently out of phase, the cycle depends on your hardware.

Miomjon wrote:I've done quite a lot of testing with GBI, and I'd like to share the information I gathered for anyone who has trouble with it, especially with the ULL version.

First off, I've found GBI LL to be working with all outputs and all displays that I've tried (that includes the Framemeister, a late 90's Sony CRT TV and a Samsung HDTV with both an NTSC and a PAL GC over composite, S-video, RGB and component). I haven't tried the regular GBI much because it adds too much latency to my liking, but of course this version should work on pretty much all displays due to its normal refresh rate. I would then personally recommend GBI LL over GBI, though the latter does have a couple of nice features that might appeal to you.

Now to the main meat: GBI ULL. On the Samsung HDTV, it kind of worked but only on component, on other outputs the signal 'jumped' from times to times. But anyway the TV adds enough latency of its own that it defeats the purpose of ULL. On the CRT TV, which I only tested S-video on, it displayed fine, except in black and white (not a wiring issue as GBI LL worked fine). Sadly I can't test other inputs because I don't have access to the TV very often, though I imagine it will behave like the Framemeister. With this upscaler (connected to a PC monitor), it also displayed in black and white over S-video, as well as with composite (meaning it's really a timing issue with the colour information and not a problem with the chromance signal of S-video, as Extrems mentionned before). With component, the Framemeister didn't display anything, but the Samsung TV proved that it does work (and even displays it in 240p). The last output option, thankfully did work: with RGB (and as such, a PAL GC) it did end up displaying colour, making it the only combination of outputs+display I own that made sense (since the Framemeister+PC monitor offers lower latency than most HDTVs).
As a final note, I've noticed that GBI ULL, with all output methods and displays, showed some weird tearing line that span about 10 pixels in height, but they only appear after about 2 minutes of uptime, and disappear 1 minute later. Not sure what that's about.

Hopefully this post will help a few people And don't hesitate to share your own experiences, especially if they differ with mine.

I've heard reports from people that they got the ULL version working with a Framemeister- you might want to fiddle with your settings.

As for tearing it seems to vary a lot from person to person. I believe you said at one point Extrems that it really shouldn't de-sync for hours? All I can offer is that it doesn't seem to tear on a CRT, not that that's helpful information.

bobrocks95 wrote: As for tearing it seems to vary a lot from person to person. I believe you said at one point Extrems that it really shouldn't de-sync for hours? All I can offer is that it doesn't seem to tear on a CRT, not that that's helpful information.

I do wonder if it maybe could be some PAL/NTSC thing, I have a PAL GC and for me its also about 2 minutes for the desync to happen.