Shuriken Video

andre104623 · Post by **andre104623** » Wed Jul 01, 2015 9:11 pm

Ok before I ask I'm not a great PCB builder and I need a little help here with the pinouts for the JTAG. I was looking at the update for the SPDIF output and I see the .bit file I need to program but the SPI_flash is in .bin format. When I look at the older gcdv_update 0.2.zip I see SPI_flash.bit which is not in the gcdv_update 0.3.zip. What I'm trying to say is I don't know how to generate the SPI_flash.bin to .MCS or .BIT so IMPACT will flash it. I'm sorry if I sound dumb but I'm learning and need a little help here thank you.

shuriken video v1 top.png: (114.17 KiB) Not downloaded yet

Also I pointed to I think is pin 8 on the spare for SPDIF output

The correct file for flashing is toplevel_p2xh.bit right

I know HyperIris said to just flash down the SPI flash instead of the FPGA but I don't think my programmer can do this. When I did the GCvideo-DVI flash it was simple because the board was marked and the .MCS file was ready to flash so it was very easy.

happy_bunny · Post by **happy_bunny** » Wed Jul 01, 2015 11:50 pm

CONN4 is the jtag, on that uploaded pic the very left hand side pin of conn4 is vcc then gnd,tclk,tdo,tdi and the last one on the right hand side is tms.

will look at the .MCS file stuff tomorrow its late here in the UK need to sleep now sorry dude brain is dead at the moment should be easy to generate that .MCS file (hopefully).

yes I see what I need to do looking at xapp951.pdf page 13 I need to run this on the command line

promgen -spi -p mcs -o spi_flash.mcs -s 512 -u 0 toplevel_p2xh.bit

and that will generate the required mcs file will update the zip tomorrow

andre104623 · Post by **andre104623** » Thu Jul 02, 2015 1:40 am

Thank you so much. You don't know how much I appreciate it

andre104623 · Post by **andre104623** » Thu Jul 02, 2015 3:51 pm

Boards got back from the fab they look great! Will post some pics later

happy_bunny · Post by **happy_bunny** » Thu Jul 02, 2015 8:16 pm

ok update the zip file on my website we have two ways of flashing the serial flash if you have a jtag cable use spi_flash.mcs. If like me you are to poor for a jtag cable use spi_flash.bin and manually program the serial flash chip.

if you are going to try this at home watch your eyes, I have done two of these boards and although you can do it the pitch on the fpga and HDMI connector is really fine, so be careful with your eye sight do it in a well lite room and take a break to re-focus your eyes.

"Also I pointed to I think is pin 8 on the spare for SPDIF output"

yes thats pin 8, on the very left is pin 10 gnd then vcc and finally SPDIF on pin 8.

andre104623 · Post by **andre104623** » Thu Jul 02, 2015 8:38 pm

Thank you happy_bunny you really helped me out

meneerbeer · Post by **meneerbeer** » Thu Jul 02, 2015 8:53 pm

Easy method is to use flux and then perform drag soldering for the fpga and HDMI connector. Before that I would just flood my pins with solder and then remove the excess solder with solder braid. This method sucked, because sometimes too much solder was removed and also some of the pins would bend slightly and make shorts with other pins. Since I use drag soldering my boards are a lot more solid. This video helped me a lot.

I have ordered my own design of an HDMI board by the way. It should fit underneath the disc drive. I think the board is bigger than your board.

I guess I will post some info on the board at some point, but I have some other stuff going on as well, so maybe I can only start working on this in August again.

andre104623 · Post by **andre104623** » Fri Jul 03, 2015 11:25 am

meneerbeer wrote:Easy method is to use flux and then perform drag soldering for the fpga and HDMI connector. Before that I would just flood my pins with solder and then remove the excess solder with solder braid. This method sucked, because sometimes too much solder was removed and also some of the pins would bend slightly and make shorts with other pins. Since I use drag soldering my boards are a lot more solid. This video helped me a lot.

I have ordered my own design of an HDMI board by the way. It should fit underneath the disc drive. I think the board is bigger than your board. I guess I will post some info on the board at some point, but I have some other stuff going on as well, so maybe I can only start working on this in August again.

Best way for me is use no clean 951 flux pen wet everything. Then just use a little solder on one pin then place the HDMI connector down and solder the first pin then that makes everything easier I do the same for FPGA but one pin on ether side instead.

Fuck the seller I bought the 100nf/0.1uf caps sent me 1206 size not 0805. Its ok I got them to fit by tombstone the caps on top of the pads they just fit. Thank god I didn't feel like waiting a week for caps

andre104623 · Post by **andre104623** » Fri Jul 03, 2015 4:41 pm

andre104623 wrote:
meneerbeer wrote:Easy method is to use flux and then perform drag soldering for the fpga and HDMI connector. Before that I would just flood my pins with solder and then remove the excess solder with solder braid. This method sucked, because sometimes too much solder was removed and also some of the pins would bend slightly and make shorts with other pins. Since I use drag soldering my boards are a lot more solid. This video helped me a lot.

I have ordered my own design of an HDMI board by the way. It should fit underneath the disc drive. I think the board is bigger than your board. I guess I will post some info on the board at some point, but I have some other stuff going on as well, so maybe I can only start working on this in August again.
Best way for me is use no clean 951 flux pen wet everything. Then just use a little solder on one pin then place the HDMI connector down and solder the first pin then that makes everything easier I do the same for FPGA but one pin on ether side instead.

Fuck the seller I bought the 100nf/0.1uf caps sent me 1206 size not 0805. Its ok I got them to fit by tombstone the caps on top of the pads they just fit. Thank god I didn't feel like waiting a week for caps

SUCCESS!!! IT WORKS!!! Now for some testing and video also need to solder in the SPDIF output I might do that tomorrow.

Never mind I want sound working tonight. I as guessed before the build my display won't read 480i though HDMI so I must force every game/homebrew to 480p. Sorry for the messy build but I use the most shitty gamecube I have and I have no other way of connecting the shuriken video v1 besides wires but hey it works and thats all that matters

happy_bunny · Post by **happy_bunny** » Fri Jul 03, 2015 7:10 pm

Sounds like you didnt think it would work well it is a v1 i guess ☺ does it work on your tv that sounds like a real test. Glad you got something working was worries you wouldnt get any video output ☺

andre104623 · Post by **andre104623** » Fri Jul 03, 2015 10:54 pm

happy_bunny wrote:Sounds like you didnt think it would work well it is a v1 i guess ☺ does it work on your tv that sounds like a real test. Glad you got something working was worries you wouldnt get any video output ☺

No it was the first project on my new soldering station and it turned out wonderful. It still suffers from the same issues that the gcvideo-dvi has like it doesn't work on my TV but the picture is great and the sound it also right on par with the gcvideo-dvi. Haven't had no problems so far for the 3 hours I been playing it so I'm going to make a little video doesn't have to be as long as the last since its a clone of a Pluto. Really wish I could of shown the way you wanted it installed.

Suggestion make the spi smaller and other components then use a xcs200a instead so you can have line doubler and OSD. The price difference is like 7.00usd it could be the same price as it is now

tmp_13837-20150703_1912551580418533.jpg: (3.62 MiB) Not downloaded yet

tmp_13837-20150703_191237-1473363275.jpg: (3.62 MiB) Not downloaded yet

Total build time: 4 1/2 hours
Total install time: 1 hour not including removing the port. It took about 1 1/2 hours to remove the port and all solder.

Total cost per shuriken video v1 fully built from oshpark.com 17.50usd thats not bad at all. Optical transmitter is 3.50 each if you want sound and this price doesn't include shipping cost of the components because it verys by where your from

andre104623 · Post by **andre104623** » Sat Jul 04, 2015 3:37 am

andre104623 wrote:
happy_bunny wrote:Sounds like you didnt think it would work well it is a v1 i guess ☺ does it work on your tv that sounds like a real test. Glad you got something working was worries you wouldnt get any video output ☺
No it was the first project on my new soldering station and it turned out wonderful. It still suffers from the same issues that the gcvideo-dvi has like it doesn't work on my TV but the picture is great and the sound it also right on par with the gcvideo-dvi. Haven't had no problems so far for the 3 hours I been playing it so I'm going to make a little video doesn't have to be as long as the last since its a clone of a Pluto. Really wish I could of shown the way you wanted it installed.

Suggestion make the spi smaller and other components then use a xcs200a instead so you can have line doubler and OSD. The price difference is like 7.00usd it could be the same price as it is now
tmp_13837-20150703_1912551580418533.jpg

tmp_13837-20150703_191237-1473363275.jpg
Total build time: 4 1/2 hours
Total install time: 1 hour not including removing the port. It took about 1 1/2 hours to remove the port and all solder.

Total cost per shuriken video v1 fully built from oshpark.com 17.50usd thats not bad at all. Optical transmitter is 3.50 each if you want sound and this price doesn't include shipping cost of the components because it verys by where your from

Huge update its working on my TVs

This is very interesting why doesnt work with the Pluto board? Now 480i still won't show but 480p looks great need more testing. 480i works on one of my TVs the better one this is very strange.

The shuriken video makes me rethink everything about the gcvideo-dvi. The code is there but unseen targeted a flawed designed board (Pluto 2x HDMI). The only thing missing on the shuriken is the right FPGA for scanlines and other osd settings. The board is perfect it works on my TV its cheap and so far I had no problems. But if your thinking of trying to build one of these be aware its not the easiest PCB to solder.

happy_bunny · Post by **happy_bunny** » Sat Jul 04, 2015 7:46 am

I dont think flawed design board are the right words, i would say less compatable they have done some weird stuff with the hdmi lines which dont help compatability between tvs also there is no pull ups on the i2c lines which again dont help.

meneerbeer · Post by **meneerbeer** » Sat Jul 04, 2015 8:21 am

I am wondering why it does not work on some TVs. I have a very cheap Toshiba TV. I tried HDMI on it with an FPGA a few times. I only connected the data lines and one ground line and that was it. This gave me a working image.

It is definitely the case that some TVs are more picky. Has the Shuriken Video been confirmed to not work with certain monitors?

My current guess is that some TVs do not like the DVI signal over HDMI. Adding infoframes might solve the problem. I sure hope it does..

I do believe that someone said you should not use too long HDMI cables with the TMDS outputs of the FPGA.

andre104623 · Post by **andre104623** » Sat Jul 04, 2015 2:13 pm

meneerbeer wrote:I am wondering why it does not work on some TVs. I have a very cheap Toshiba TV. I tried HDMI on it with an FPGA a few times. I only connected the data lines and one ground line and that was it. This gave me a working image.

It is definitely the case that some TVs are more picky. Has the Shuriken Video been confirmed to not work with certain monitors?

My current guess is that some TVs do not like the DVI signal over HDMI. Adding infoframes might solve the problem. I sure hope it does..

I do believe that someone said you should not use too long HDMI cables with the TMDS outputs of the FPGA.

It works on every TV I've tried. Just some doesn't like the 480i over HDMI but yes this board is perfect can you update your page with the v1 3d printed case because I ordered v1 PCBs not v2

happy_bunny · Post by **happy_bunny** » Sat Jul 04, 2015 8:57 pm

That sounds like it matchs my testing 480p / 576p work fine on both my monitor and TV however the interlaced settings 480i etc dont work on my TV, it does state in my TV manual that the lowest setting is 480p and 480i is not supported so I cant really moan. My TV is 8 years old I think if I bought a newer TV it would support 480i but my TV is working fine at the moment so I am not going to upgrade it yet.

I dont have a case for the V1 only the V2

even if I did the board is too wide to fit through the opening in the metal case the gc drive sits on so you cant mount it like I have sorry dude

andre104623 · Post by **andre104623** » Sat Jul 04, 2015 10:13 pm

happy_bunny wrote:That sounds like it matchs my testing 480p / 576p work fine on both my monitor and TV however the interlaced settings 480i etc dont work on my TV, it does state in my TV manual that the lowest setting is 480p and 480i is not supported so I cant really moan. My TV is 8 years old I think if I bought a newer TV it would support 480i but my TV is working fine at the moment so I am not going to upgrade it yet.

I dont have a case for the V1 only the V2 even if I did the board is too wide to fit through the opening in the metal case the gc drive sits on so you cant mount it like I have sorry dude

Shit that sucks. Even that one for your homemade V1 wouldn't work? Oh I also noticed that the holes on the V1 don't quite match up with the gamecube ports was that fixed in the V2 design?

happy_bunny · Post by **happy_bunny** » Sat Jul 04, 2015 10:57 pm

Oh I also noticed that the holes on the V1 don't quite match up with the gamecube ports was that fixed in the V2 design?

I made the pitch between holes a little bigger so I can get tracks between then if you look at the underside of the board between holes 4 and 6 you will see what I mean.

At the start of soldering I line up the middle holes 10,12 these will be straight then solder holes 1 and 22 these will be at a slight angle because of pitch hole mispatch but its not to bad. Then I solder the rest of the holes seems to work for me and it allowed me to get tracks between holes.

Even that one for your homemade V1 wouldn't work?

dont understand the question

andre104623 · Post by **andre104623** » Sat Jul 04, 2015 11:12 pm

happy_bunny wrote:
Oh I also noticed that the holes on the V1 don't quite match up with the gamecube ports was that fixed in the V2 design?
I made the pitch between holes a little bigger so I can get tracks between then if you look at the underside of the board between holes 4 and 6 you will see what I mean.

At the start of soldering I line up the middle holes 10,12 these will be straight then solder holes 1 and 22 these will be at a slight angle because of pitch hole mispatch but its not to bad. Then I solder the rest of the holes seems to work for me and it allowed me to get tracks between holes.

Even that one for your homemade V1 wouldn't work?
dont understand the question

The first one you pictured that was home stenciled prototype. You made a case for that I don't know if it was just a bottom section. It wouldn't mattered if it fit or not I could make cuts so it would fit. I'm worried about these wires I HATE WIRES

happy_bunny · Post by **happy_bunny** » Sat Jul 04, 2015 11:23 pm

oh yer I forgot about that prototype case for v1, will upload the files tomorrow it will not fit though you will have to hack it alot ! but at least yuo will be wire free I guess.

andre104623 · Post by **andre104623** » Sun Jul 05, 2015 2:14 am

I have a off topic/ on topic question. The products you make shuriken video/USB/attack why are there exposed traces? If your PCBs are coming from the fab like that I would consider a new PCB maker and you could save some money as well. If you need help with your file format for oshpark.com I can help you rebuild the Gerber's. I did your attack board for OSH format but I think I will not put my time into that project. I think I might make a few 1:1 USB gecko SE but I heard the coding isn't right did you notice any problems when building your code for the shuriken USB?

I spent some time with the v1 3d printed case and it just won't do not for a NTSC console at least. But I came up with what I got now its done with wires but there very short maybe 1/2 inch long.

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andre104623 · Post by **andre104623** » Tue Jul 07, 2015 6:59 pm

Is it possible to rebuild the code so a xcs200a can be used. It would make this board perfect with OSD capabilities

Just got done building board number 2 got it done in 2 hours this time still need to flash

andre104623 · Post by **andre104623** » Sun Jul 12, 2015 5:13 pm

After 3 days of testing with the shuriken video device I can say this is the best cloned component device I've used so far. It a shame that you must build the shuriken video for personal use. I also made a video of usage and installation will publish soon. @hyperiris you said that you didn't need prog-b connected to ground to program the SPI but this wasn't the case for myself when I connected the JTAG connections to my USB platform programmer I see the FPGA and SPI flash but when I try to program it fails. This is when I figured out that when I turn the cube on to program with JP1 connected to ground then right before I press program on the PC I pull the jumper out then it will flash fine very strange. This might be caused by me using a clone xilinx programmer that I bought from eBay for 30usd. If anyone is looking to try one of these boards out I have one extra fully built and flashed ready to install in the marketplace for $30usd shipped and that will conclude my shuriken video build on to bigger and hopefully better things GCvideo-lite. I'm eager to try VGA output next

happy_bunny · Post by **happy_bunny** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 12:08 pm

my gc video timing research write up

http://www.staffs2.webspace.virginmedia ... timing.htm

warning the cpld vhdl is well ruff it works 20% of the time it was enough for me to capture the required data.

andre104623 · Post by **andre104623** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 1:02 am

Posted video of usage https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMpSMagFTyI

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